​Saxon St Peter's

A unique feature of Bywell village is the presence of two Saxon churches, separated (when they were built) by only a road. ​  Most visitors wonder why two such structures were built so close - experts seem to agree that the church at St Peter's had some monastic community function, while St Andrew's served the needs of the nearby village and community and visitors travelling to St peter's.

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The foundations of the original Saxon structure of St Peter's slightly overlap the nave of the existing building - which suggests it was  a building of great importance.  

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As its floor space was considerably greater than that suggested by the Saxon remains at St Andrew's church, one can make a reasonable assumption that this was this site, rather than St Andrew's, where a bishop was ordained in 803.   Records tell us that Egbert was consecrated Bishop of Lindisfarne in Bywell by the Bishops of York, Hexham and Candida Casa (Whithorn).

 

From this documentary evidence, we can make a reasoned supposition that this important building was constructed sometime between 655 and the latter part of the eighth century.  Based on its size and similarities to Monkwearmouth church, the Saxon St Peter's was almost certainly a church serving a monastery.  Where was that monastery?  Probably any archaeological remains (almost certainly of wooden buildings) are under the fields around the church, awaiting discovery!

 

In Saxon times there was no such thing as a parish and those few stone churches that existed did not have towers (these were often added to existing church buildings by the Normans). As the most complete and unaltered Saxon church in England, Escomb church near Bishop Auckland gives us a glimpse of what St Peter's might have looked like. Although smaller than St Peter's, it shares the high windows and simple design of all Saxon stone churches.

 

From the outside of St Peter’s you can see evidence left by earlier buildings roofs abutting the current wall.  The earliest, rounded windows, lie above this level, letting light into the body of the church. Apart from the foundations which are visible at the foot of the north side of the thirteenth century tower, other Saxon parts of the current St Peter's church include the north nave wall, including the four high windows, the side walls of the western part of the chancel and the blocked door on the northern side of the chancel. 

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Norman St Peter's 

​After the Norman Conquest in AD 1066, the lands of Bywell were seized from the previous owners - the Saxon thanes - and given into the possession of two great Norman barons, Baliol and Bolbec. The churches too became properties to transfer from one authority to another. The deal included the tax of a tenth part (a tithe) payable by landowners to support the church. The right of presentation, that is the nomination of a clergyman to a vacant benefice, could also be exercised. Bywell St Peter was in the gift of the Baliols. Subsequently, Bywell successively belonged to the Priory of Tynemouth, the Abbey of St Albans (1197-?) and later to the Bishopric of Durham. Bywell St Peter was called the Black Church because it belonged to the Benedictine or Black canons. This was the Order to which the Tynemouth, Hexham and Durham canons, whose dress was black, also belonged.

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​Much of the present St Peter’s is late 13th century, for example the beautiful lancet windows at the east end.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The low side window on the south side of the chancel is a mystery. It is unlikely that this was positioned to give access to the sacrament for those who were sick or highly infectious from the plague. On the south side of the church behind the present day organ, is a thirteenth century side chapel dedicated to St John the Baptist. This contained a large stone altar slab inscribed with five altar crosses. On the north side of the church is a more elegant side chapel with a monumental slab (now concealed under the altar) inscribed with a knight in armour. As the square headed windows of this chapel date from the mid fourteenth century there has been speculation that the knight represents one of the Baliols of that time, in particular either John Baliol or his son Edward.

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​​​​​High on the west wall of the tower is a doorway (visible from outside) subsequently blocked up. Tempting as it is to suggest that this was positioned for reasons of defence, it is more likely to have been a temporary access during construction. The tower contains two very old bells; the one of the 13th century is just over two feet in diameter and stamped with a line of very large Gothic letters. The other of similar size has an inscription in Latin ‘ Ut surgant gentes vocor Horn et cito jac(n)tes’ - ‘I am called Horn and I call the sleeping people to arise’ . These bells have been rung on Sunday morning, except during World War ll and when the church was closed for the 2020 Covid pandemic. In pre-Reformation times this could have been as early as 5 am for Matins but is now more like 9.30! They may also have been used at times to warn the inhabitants of Bywell about impending danger from border reivers - both English and Scots.

 

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Outside on the south wall is a scratch dial clock, possibly early twelfth century and rare in the North Country.

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​Victorian St Peter's

​The north aisle once housed a chantry school for local children – until 1849.  A wall separated it from the nave and it was accessed from the north.   The door from this has since been repurposed to become the present vestry door. 

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Fonts are used to hold the water for baptisms.  They were traditionally located at the door of the church as baptism is a sacrament indicating entry into the Christian family.  The font at Bywell St Peter is Norman.  It was relocated to its current position a long time ago and we cannot move it ourselves!  The ornate canopy above it is Victorian. 

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Canon Dwarris, Vicar of Bywell St Peter from 1845-1901, was responsible for the restoration and enlargement of the church, which took place between 1848-1870. The chancel arch was rebuilt in its previous form in 1849 under the direction of Benjamin Ferrey who was also responsible for the rebuilding of the south aisle on its old foundations, an organ chamber on the south side in 1870 and new oak seats. There is a fine collection of Victorian stained glass windows (1881) made by the famous local craftsman William Wailes (of Saltwell Park fame). In particular, the north chapel has a series of windows depicting saints and dedicated to various members of the Wailes family.  

 

The organ in St Peter’s Church was built in 1874  by P C Nicholson of Newcastle.  It is a fine example of the organs being built at the time.   We are very proud of it.​  This is a tracker instrument, meaning there are lots of wooden rods which link the keys to the pipes and allow air to pass through which in turn makes the sound.   Due to irregular temperatures and varied humidity, problems can easily occur regarding tuning and notes sticking, which in turn allow the organ to play on its own.   An organist’s nightmare!  Care has to be taken when heating the church as wood is notorious for changing its character.​

​If you look at the pipes above the console you will notice a mottled pattern in the metal.   This is because three metals are used in the production of these pipes – tin, zinc and lead.   These metals together produce a rich tone called the Diapason, which is the basic sound of the organ.  ​The pedal board (installed in 1949) was recently rebuilt and now, thank goodness, doesn’t rattle when played.  Come and listen to it at one of our services or occasional concerts.  ​Music is an important part of our Worship here at St Peter’s Church, Bywell and we are fortunate also to have the support of a choir of local singers for special occasions and a team of gifted organists